Alternatives to viscose fibre is the topic we are going to discuss in this blog! Luckily we are seeing more and more of these alternatives to viscose on the market! But on the other hand, we have also seen companies switching from polyester (with its well-known huge footprint) to viscose in a failed trial to become more sustainable! Let’s decompile together some myths about sustainable fibers!
What are artificial fibers?
Artificial fibers are made from plant cellulose, regenerated from natural sources such as wood, namely from fast-growing, regenerative trees such as eucalyptus, beech, and pine, as well as plants such as bamboo, soy, and sugar cane. So they come from nature and can be seen as plant fibers just like the linen and cotton, but the main difference is that they cannot be converted into fibers without chemical intervention. So the cellulose material has to be dissolved in a chemical solution to produce a pulpy viscous substance, which is then spun into fibres that can then be made into threads.
Some examples of artificial fibers are acetate and viscose. The terminology used for viscose in US and UK is rayon. Viscose was the very first man-made fiber discovered by the French scientist and industrialist Hilaire de Chardonnet (1839-1924). With this fiber it was sought to copy silk.
What are the properties of viscose?
In terms of its properties, viscose is absorbent and had a soft and smooth touch. And most of you are very happy with the overall feeling when wearing a viscose garment. On the other hand, also depending on how it is produced, viscose lacks insulative properties. Consequently, in the summer it can be too warm or in the winter too cold. In addition traditional viscose is not durable, loosing half of its strength when wet. Especially satin viscose is not durable, it needs to be hand-washed and with care and iron into shape after the washing cycle.
“Viscose is touted as an environmentally-friendly alternative to other more harmful threads like polyester or traditional cotton. But while viscose is not inherently toxic or polluting, it comes with its own set of pros and cons, much like any other fabric.There are two main concerns with viscose production:
– the source of the wood pulp – unless certified by companies like the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) or produced by LENZING™, it is difficult to know if your new silky top contributed to the deforestation of vulnerable forests or released toxic chemicals into the air and waterways near factories, and
– and how it is turned into usable fabric -the process releases many toxic chemicals into the air and waterways surrounding production plants. Carbon disulphide, one of the chemicals used, is another toxic ingredient which has been linked to higher levels of coronary heart disease, birth defects, skin conditions, and cancer, not just in textile workers, but also in those who live near viscose factories.” (Goodonyou)
So if we are not prepared to compromise on this, we can buy
– viscose garments certified by companies like Forest Stewardship Council or produced by LENZING or
– find alternatives to viscose.
The best alternatives to viscose are:
A. Lyocell and Modal made by LENZING
We discussed about the next generation of fibers here and we concluded it is wrong to assume that all man-made fibers are not environmental-friendly. Same goes for the new generation of viscose – called lyocell – made from wood pulp – the production process of which has been labelled eco-friendly; and the lenzing modal – a type of lyocell produced only from beech trees, biodegradable and carbon free, but also durable. A lot of the brands in my Trustworthy Sustainable Fashion Brands Guide use these two fabrics as alternative to viscose.
B. Upcycled Viscose
I did mention that in terms of properties, viscose is not such a durable fabric. However, if cared properly, it can be rescued and transformed into a new garment. Also remember that a big chunk of the clothes you see every season in the shops are not sold, so some of the brands I included in my Trustworthy Sustainable Fashion Brands Guide decided for upcycling these new garments rather that using virgin fabrics. And they greatly reduce the impact of this new clothes, water pollution and land use.
C. ECOVERO
This innovative fabric I recently heard of is made using sustainable wood from controlled sources, which are either Forest Stewardship Council or Program for Endorsement of Forest Certification Schemes certified in Europe. More than 60% of the trees used to produce the fibre come from Austria and Bavaria to ensure lower emissions. Nearly all the chemicals used during the production of ECOVERO™ are also recovered and reused, causing 50% less emissions and taking up half as much energy and water.
We have options and we can all be part of the slower fashion movement! Even the smallest step counts! Will you join?
